In Search of the Researchable

The weird and wonderful Prague

2008-04-15T07:56:46Z

Travel is a wonderful thing. It opens one's eyes to other lives, other cultures, other histories, other sights, sounds and smells. But one thing I find going to a new location is that it can be quite awesome, awe-inspiring and if you’re there only for a short time, overpowering. You’re caught up in the race to see as much of the established and noted ‘sights’ as you can, stare in wonderment, record what you see then move on to the next on the list. If you’re on a group tour, this can be educational if you have a good guide, but even then you’re processed to a formula, a timetable that allows very little, if any, freedom to see beyond.

My recent trip to Prague had me gallivanting around just as described above, but I was also there for another reason, to seek out the quirky Czech personality, their sense of humour, their telltale remnants of the past and their artistic foibles.

So, in the hope that I may broaden your curiosity, open your eyes a little wider to see beyond and to learn to look down and not just up, I share with you some of my quirky finds and maybe expose a little of the latent humour that lies just a fraction below the surface of a long-tormented country.

One sight I came across I feel reveals all this and more, clever, witty and quite a political approach to the recovery of a city that over decades was left to decay.

As if left imbedded into the pavement in front of the Museum as soviet tanks rolled over to forcefully continue their occupation, this cross points to the Memorial to Victims of Communism.

A shop window gathering more than dust, vodka and bullets are left as a reminder perhaps? As does the soviet designed buildings that stand embarrassingly and obtrusively out of place beside grand buildings such as the Museum.

Though, some may say that other, more recent designs are also out of place such as the Dancing Building, but then again, curves have been in for some time.

And while we’re on buildings, this may seem out of place in this story, but hidden inside this building that houses a casino, and is next door to a McDonald’s, is the Museum of Communism!

Whether the location for the Museum of Communism is a coincidence or was a conscious tongue-in-cheek choice, the work of sculpture, David Černý is definitely deliberately provocative.

Other artists abound in this city once called the cultural centre of Europe, some not so well know, or indeed not known at all.

Then there is the monument to an artist, Lennon’s Wall, and the invitation to leave your own creative tribute.

Even add your “I woz here” to the Elf Hostel beer garden as he himself looks on.

But of course wall art (sgraffito) has been around for centuries in a rather more classical style.

Even earlier remnants of old archways are preserved as wall art and patting the dog not only keeps it well polished, but may also bestow some luck.

And not to be outdone, Mother Nature contributes her own unique creativity to this remarkable canvas.

Yes, art is everywhere in Prague, in the hundreds of galleries and the fairytale narrow laneways that appear from above to be sucking their towering buildings into a meandering void.

But not all pieces of art are easily interpreted, such as the Astronomical clock on the Old Town Hall, but then there is always the one around the corner to help you keep your dinner date.

So night falls and the underworld beckons you to follow the stare down the stairs to life in the dungeons.

Here, beer is consumed, rich and filling pork and dumplings are left unfinished and the sound of jazz resonates in the perfect acoustic environment, and if too much beer is consumed, relief is not far away.

And finally, night has its own palette as you stroll through the quiet cobblestone alleys to your abode, refreshed by the detail observed, enriched with unique images that will remind you forever of the personality of the city.

The weird and wonderful Prague remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Transport in Thailand

2008-03-19T02:07:03Z

No matter how you plan to travel around Thailand, up-market, budget or just take it as it comes, there’s a way and a means for everyone. You can plan and book ahead or have the freedom to go where you want and when you want and there will be some form of transport to get you to your destination.

My plan was to spend most of my travels in the northern parts of Thailand. I had a list of locations I needed to visit, not as a tourist, but as part of a project I was working on, so time and budget was restrictive. The result was an insight into the movement of a population for a multitude of reasons, from transporting large bundles of wares to business reasons or just plain visiting and which at first appeared a frenzy of casual confusion until I realised the system is well oiled and reasonably reliable.

I’d like to take you with me as I start in the capital, Bangkok, the throbbing heart and the transport hub. A city that is in rapid growth and in a hurry to catch up as I noticed the express rail link to the new Suvarnabhumi International Airport is still under construction and well past its deadline. But never fear for there are taxis for around 300THB ($10 and 45 minutes) and buses for 120THB ($4 and 60 to 80 minutes depending on stops) to deliver you to your accommodation.

The Bangkok main station is Hua Lamphong for long-distance and local trains and a terminal for the new fast, clean, cheap and efficient underground MRT rail network that connects at several points with the convenient and atmospheric Skytrain.

Hua Lamphong main station and MRT underground station.

The underground MRT line connects with the Skytrain (Silom Line) at Si Lom. From here you can take the Skytrain north, or south to its terminal station, Saphan Taksin on the Chao Phraya River.

Bangkok Skytrain

At Saphan Taksin you can take a ferry, a tour boat or a free shuttle boat to experience the hectic activities on the river as everyday working vessels, some appearing too monstrous for the river, ply their trade as high-rise apartments and international hotels peer down from both banks.

Traffic on the Chao Phraya River

As much as I would have loved to stay longer in Bangkok I needed to head north, to Udon Thani and the fastest and least expensive way was to fly with the Thai Airways discount airline NOK. If you book well ahead, the hour plus flight can cost as little as $30 (which includes all taxes and charges) and you can pick where you sit. Even if you book the day you fly the cost is still cheap at around $65. Of course this is a no frills airline but it does prepare you for the less luxurious transport to come.

NOK air

From Udon Thani I took a bus further north to Nong Khai on the banks of the Mekong River. It is here that I quickly learnt how important the bus network is in Thailand. An endless stream of buses of a varying degrees of standards and disrepair cover all regions. First impression is one of confusion, but after purchasing my ticket from a helpful attendant I settled down for an hours wait before my transport arrives. During this hour I come to the pleasant realisation of the unpretentious organization the Thais have in place. Though there are moments of utter frenzy with the arrival of each bus as hordes of taxi and Tuk-tuk drivers converge on the dismounting and weary passengers for their custom.

Udon Thani bus station

From Nong Khai it’s a short distance across the Friendship Bridge to Vientiane in Laos, but this time I’m staying on the Thai side as having been to Vientiane on a previous visit. Here that I have time to slow down, go where I want to with ease, hop on and hop off at will and enjoy the river and the flat terrain – I dined on the river, left a wake in the muddy water and hired a bicycle.

More relaxed forms of transport

The process is repeated as I fly NOK Air from Udon Thani to Chiang Mai ($77) and take a bus to Chiang Sean and the Golden Triangle. The trip takes four hours to Chiang Rai and another hour to Chiang Saen, so I opt for some comfort and a first class bus (about $8) with air-conditioning, free water, a snack and an on-board stewardess.

Chiang Mai, being Thailand’s second largest city, has an equally larger bus terminal but the waiting is still prevalent with two and a half hours for my VIP transport, though there is a saving of an hour in travel time. This extra long vigil further educates me in the culture of Thai travel. Spuiking is loud for last minute ticket sales as buses prepare to depart. Food of all sorts is purchased and devoured or kept for the journey. I had time to shop for some band-aids to cushion my blistered feet. Backpackers, from all corners of the globe, looked the same as they did in the 70’s in their ethnic, soiled clubber as Monks in their pristine orange garb headed to their special, reserved seats in front of an altar, possibly to prey for the quick arrival of their bus. Patience is a requirement of travel, not only in Thailand but all over the globe.

Chiang Mai bus terminal

At Chiang Saen I take a tuk-tuk the nine kilometres to Sop Ruak and the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Ruak Rivers, the so-called heart of the ‘Golden Triangle’ and where the borders of Myanmar, Laos and Thailand meet. Sop Ruak is a small village so transport is less frequent with a blue mini bus (about every 20 minutes) the only way to get back to Chiang Saen or maybe the occasional truckie passing by with a load of bamboo may give you a lift. But the Tuk-tuk remains the most common form of local transport. With its colourful driver, the shrill tuk-tuk of the 2-stoke engine and the tight manoeuvrability on three wheels, the ride can be either pleasant or a terrifying thrill. And remember, before entering a taxi or Tuk-tuk, negotiate a reasonable fare in a cheerful manner.

Tuk-tuks and and other carriers

But, the ‘Golden Triangle’ is an attraction and like most attractions, they attract tourists in large numbers. Groups that can be confused and easily lost, so, how better to make sure they can find their own transport among the dozens of double-decked, diesel-guzzling beasts than to give each its own bright and colourful personality.

Tour buses

Well, that pretty much covers transport in Thailand. Planes, trains, buses, riverboats and 2-stroke three-wheelers make traversing this country exciting, interesting and totally suitable. But, apart from the obvious omission, your own two feet, the only other form of transport I have left till last is the soft-striding, gentle, nature-loving elephant.

The colour of a country is enhanced by the culture of its ability to move about and Thailand offers all the colour and efficiency at a very reasonable price. The added prerequisite of patience can only help to further observe and understand a land and its people. My journey had ended and I depart on my last form of transport, on a wing and a prayer that soon I’ll return.

Suvarnabhumi Airport departure gate

Transport in Thailand remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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New bells for Tyn Church

2008-03-17T23:21:31Z

There’s so much to see when planning your travel itinerary, but when you happen across something totally unplanned, a once-in-a-lifetime event, a special moment in history and you’re an on-the-spot witness, this is the birth of an everlasting memory.

Such was the occasion on my recent visit to the capital of the Czech Republic, Prague, when on a sunny winter's day I walked through the Old Town Square to be confronted by something so out of place in this historic open space, a space featuring more than its fair share of tourist attractions: the Old Town Hall with its confounding Astronomical Clock, the Jan Hus Monument, the Rococo Kinksy Palace, the decorated Storch House, the Baroque Church of St Nicholas and the most distinctive landmark, the Church of Our Lady before Tyn with its Gothic steeples that I’m sure inspired the Disneyland designers. Here, overpowering the aged palette of the past, I’m confronted by a massive, bright yellow crane, its feet firmly rooted trustingly upon the small cobblestones with its extended tentacle stretching upwards towards the Tyn steeples.

Looking something like a promotion display for a construction company and attracting a large curious crowd, the crane began to lift something from a thin alleyway beside the Church. As soon as the object became high enough for the crowd to see, a sigh of wonderment rippled across the square as they recognized the familiar shape of a large, heavy bell. Silence then fell over the onlookers as they became totally consumed by this historic event.

Originally the Church towers housed six bells until WWII when the Germans seized control of Prague and proceeded to melt the bells for their metal to be converted into military equipment until only one bell was left. The bell, called Marie, manufactured in 1553 and weighing 6,500 kilograms, is the second oldest bell in Prague. In 1989, after the Velvet Revolution, one new bell was installed and on this day, Tuesday 19 February 2008, three more bells are being lifted to their new home, high up in the north tower. From this point placing and tuning the new bells will take until Easter Sunday, when they will chime for the first time during the Easter Mass. A sixth bell will have to wait until sufficient funds are donated as each bell can cost up to 1 million Czech crowns and take almost two years to make as long as there’s no mishaps as the largest bell being installed today was melted down after the first attempt was slightly off-key.

Lifting each bell was a nail-bitingly slow, precise operation as the crane operator constantly received instructions from the engineers peering out of the steeple window to ensure that no overhanging ancient ornaments were damaged. This meant that the bell could not be lowered directly into the tower but needed to be hooked and pulled from within, a process unseen from the street, but most likely with the aid of some sort of hydraulic mechanism as the weight would have been to much for the number of men the small space could accommodate.

One bell after the other are lifted until the largest weighing 2,500 kilograms is manoeuvred into the north side window as Jan Hus looks on approvingly in the knowledge that once again multiple bells will toll through the Town Square and momentarily scare off the ever-present soiling pigeons.

To have read about so much oppression and turmoil over the years, which has meant so much rebuilding, and then to witness this single element of the process brings such resurrection into direct, overwhelming perspective.

New bells for Tyn Church remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Elephant walk in Chiang Rai

2008-03-15T00:56:37Z

There is no other image as identifiable of Thai culture than the elephant. This ancient beast has had a long and valuable impact on this country as a working companion and as a powerful attack force over the centuries. But these gentle creatures are in danger of neglect from unemployment and destruction by the still active illegal ivory poaching. Their once valuable contribution to farming and other heavy work related activities has diminished since the banning of logging in 1989, so it was without hesitation that I opted to go on an ‘elephant safari’ to keep one elephant and its mahout employed and fed for at least another day.

The Chiang Rai safari may not be as large as the Thai Elephant Conservation Centre in Lampang Province near Chiang Mai, but I’m not sure I wanted to go as far as seeing these regal creatures performing tricks, I just wanted to get close to them, to sense their temperament, to feel the texture of their skin, to understand more of their manner. So with my guide, Joy, we set off on an hour-long boat trip to reach the Karen village and our mount.

It’s a sudden sight as we turn around a bend in the river to be confronted by a gaggle of elephants, saddled up and tethered along the riverbank, a mounting hut dominant and waiting our arrival.

Before climbing into the saddle be sure to buy at least three bags of elephant food at 20 THB each or three for 50 THB. These consist of bananas and cut sugar cane and help the elephant’s food intake of up to 400 kg a day. The saddle is cramped for two people and one leg hangs over a square steel frame, but you’re too preoccupied at this stage to care as you mount and head off down the main street of the village towards the distant mountains. But, the first thing I learn about our elephant, apart from her name being ‘Rumpoon’, is that she doesn’t like the sound motorcars or motorbikes and starts to turn for home. The mahout gives out a shrill order and a rub behind the ears with his feet, she reluctantly obeys and continues in the right direction after the motorists have passed.

The ‘safari’ I’m on is for two hours and Rumpoon’s slow, gentle stride takes us through farmland, hillside plantations and into the jungle high in the mountains. The trail followed gets thinner and at various times Rumpoon chooses the trickle of a watercourse to follow. The trail can be very steep and high up in the mountains the drop each side can be worrying, but the elephant is no fool and considers each step taken with great care. Her step is soft leaving little if any foot print in the ground as she shuffles slowly along, sometimes too slow for the mahout who can get a little impatient and gives out with a whack of a heavy chain, a disturbing action that makes my guide Joy issue a complaint.

As food is thrown in front of Rumpoon regularly she’ll quicken her step to sniff out the offering, deftly curl her trunk around the sugarcane or bunch of bananas and lift to her mouth. After a time the mahout dismounts from Rumpoon and I’m offered his place. Sliding out of the saddle and onto her neck, I now have unencumbered contact as I rest my feet behind her ears and pat her coarse, hairy head, my level of emotion is lifted as I feel the power yet gentleness of this graceful 41-year-old lady. Then as if in protest at the mahout, who is now walking behind her, she aims a 2-gallon sneeze at him. What a wonderful gesture, I feel.

At the end of the 2-hour trek and after I’d returned to the saddle, we reach our destination on the other side of the mountain. Saddle-sore we climb out, buy three more bags of food, which is devoured immediately and sadly bid farewell to our gentle friend.

Elephant walk in Chiang Rai remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Bangkok in a flash

2008-03-06T15:22:38Z

Flying into the new Suvarnabhumi International Airport from Budapest gives you the first hint of what’s to come in the vast metropolis of Bangkok. The airport is huge and its architecture as erratic and a little over the top as is downtown with its mega sized shopping complexes and the criss-cross of heavy concrete skyways and over passes that tend to knit together in one massive concrete jungle. The constant traffic snarls at ground level makes you realise that these elevated passageways are the only safest way get from one side of the broad, choked street to the other, forcing pedestrians to navigate on high in an atmosphere of thick pollution from the crawling, tooting traffic below. It’s almost as if airports reflect the good or bad growth of the city they service for the older Don Mueang Airport is far more simpler as probably Bangkok was years ago.

So, I arrive late afternoon and have a flight to catch early the next afternoon giving me an evening and a morning to experience what I can of Bangkok. Having done some research, I decided to stay overnight at a little cheap hostel called Wendy’s House. Basically for backpackers but as I’m starting to realise the 60-plusses are now having their second go at youthful travel, or maybe reliving their hippy days, and are a good percentage of inmates. Wendy’s is in a small street near the Siam Centre and the massive Central World Plaza and for about $30 a night with breakfast and friendly, helpful staff, it’s small but fine.

So checked in, now what do I do as the sun is starting to go down and I’m getting hungry? I go across the concrete overpasses to the MBK complex. Here on the fifth floor is a more upmarket hawkers food bazaar called, naturally, the Fifth Floor Avenue Food Hall. You enter the pristine compound and given a smart card, unfortunately no photography allowed inside so I can’t show you the checkout, but it’s very much like the hawkers food stalls that are still spread across outer parts of the city and across Asia. The prices are a little higher but for around $10 you can still have a substantial meal and a beer from a pretty good variety of international cuisines. You make your choice of dishes from the snap-frozen displays, your card is swiped and you’re given a receipt. Your dish is freshly coked on the spot and when you’ve finished your meal you pay the total of you receipts as you exit. The large eating area that is extremely well managed and kept very clean.

After a meal I was a bit tired so a stroll back across the bridge to the Siam Discovery Centre to watch a bit of skateboarding in the Centres atrium with thrills and spills aplenty.

Next morning after an ample breakfast I longed for a Thai massage. This is what every visitor must have but be aware that there are varying degrees of those whose hands will be upon you as to their ability to give a good, strong massage. The parlour across opposite Wendy’s I can recommend.

With a new sense of wellbeing, I headed for the Jim Thompson Silk Museum in the next street. A 30-minute tour costs 100THB and is most interesting to hear of this American who reinvigorated the silk industry in Thailand last century and over this period managed to build a remarkable collection of rare and valuable art objects. He disappeared while on holidays in Malaysia in his 61st year (the age of his predicted death by his astrology reading) and no trace of his body has been found to this day.

With only an hour left before heading back to the domestic airport, Don Mueang, and catching a flight up north, I thought, while I’m up here in the hovering world of the pedestrian, I’ll go for a ride in the Sky Train, the elevated train that shares one of the concrete corridors. For 35THB (just over a dollar) you can travel into five zones (13THB for one zone). The ride gives another aspect to Bangkok and you get a greater understanding of the growth of this city coming eye-to-eye with tall buildings as you weave you way through them.

Bangkok is huge and I only saw a minute example of what’s offered, but you can in a very short time get to feel the excitement and energy of this city and unfortunately breathe in its fumes at the same time!

Bangkok in a flash remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Cesky Budejovice to Budapest by train

2008-03-05T11:05:41Z

My decision to train it to Budapest from the city of Cesky Budejovice, south of Prague, was made for two reasons. First, to rest my weary legs from walking non-stop around Amsterdam and Prague for two weeks, and second, to savor some of the countryside from ground level as opposed to glimpses between winter clouds.

I decided to choose the route via Wien (Vienna) that would take me through the Southern Bohemia Region, Austria and into Hungary with a change of trains in Linz, Austria This second leg train is reserved seating. The cost is about 67euro, a bit more expensive than the route through the Czech Republic via Brno and into Hungary. This train originates from Prague and passes through Cesky Budejovice.

The weather is a little un-seasonal as temperatures are around the 16 to 18 degrees for the last month of winter, so the fields are being prepared for the spring crops adding some beautiful patterns to the passing landscapes.

The one thing that did interest and excite me was the large wind farms spreading across parts of Austria. If they can do it, one may ask? To me they add a sort of elegant and calming beauty knowing they help to address our world devastating past misuse.

The first leg from Cesky Budejovice to Linz takes two hours and the second leg to Budapest a longer five hours. The trains are smooth and comfortable and maybe it’s the time of the year, but I managed to have a compartment all to myself for most of the way. Station directions are easy to follow and the Linz station is quite large and modern.

One thing about traveling by train through Europe and crossing three borders in one day, these days there's no borders and it's difficult to know what country you're in most of the time, so I only hope I've captioned these pictures with the correct location.

Like all visitors stepping off any form of transport in any European or Asian city, you will be greeted enthusiastically by touts offering taxis, accommodation or any other form of traveller comforts and Budapest is no exception, but hesitate before accepting and read up on trusted and metered taxi companies to deal with or you could be parting with to much of your hard earned.

One last thing about the European stations I have entered or exited, be it Amsterdam, Prague and now Budapest, the scene that greets you is one of a construction site. Let’s hope that what’s finally constructed offers the visitor a friendlier and more attractive welcome.

Cesky Budejovice to Budapest by train remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Cesky Krumlov

2008-03-01T05:33:34Z

Take the 533 highway out of Prague for about two hours heading to the South Bohemian Region of the Czech Republic, turn off at Cesky Budejovice for another thirty minutes and you come across the little town of Cesky Krumlov. This historic town, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is divided into three parts by the swirling Vlatva River that does a sort of S-shape around some of the most beautiful, quaint, attractive – you name it – houses and alleyways you can find, constantly dominated by the towering Krumlov Castle.

The town and castle’s creation started in the late 13th century and was owned by the House of Rosenberg (hence the rose on the town shield). The town went through several owners until becoming part of the Austrian Empire in 1806. During WWII it was annexed by Nazis Germany as part of the Sudentenland then after the war the German-speaking population were expelled and restored back to Czechoslovakia for a short time until the communist control until the Velvet Revolution in 1989. In that period the town, like many in Czechoslovakia, fell into disrepair. The town is still in the process of restoration but it has now regained much of the original architecture, style, character, culture and beauty.

But some may say it is too quaint, too fairy-tale picturesque, too touristy! Be that as it may, it is not the fault of the town, for that is how it is. Yes it is touristy in that it is one of the main tourist attractions to the Czech Republic and the town derives most of its income from tourists, but so has many similar places around the world and it’s a sign of the times that gothic, medieval, baroque and many other traditional styles have fallen into the guise of Disneyland-ish!

My advise is to visit these places in the off season to have the room to move freely and the space to take in the true beauty that was once the normal town of yesteryear.

I stayed at the Hotel Rose, a very comfortable hotel across the river from the old town. The view from my upstairs room makes me believe it’s worthwhile not to stay within the old town but just outside so you can wake to a visa that takes your imagination back seven centuries.

By the way, the hotel is up for sale and if you have a spare 4 million dollars handy???

Cesky Krumlov remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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A quick snapshot of Prague

2008-03-15T00:46:23Z

How a city can regain its status as one of the most beautiful and cultural in Europe after being through so much despair, brutality and turmoil in less than a century is a credit to the strength of its inheritance.

Since WWI, Prague has been the punching bag and stepping stone of Communism, then the ravaging inhumanity of the Nazis occupation in WWII only to be thrown back into the depressed state of communist disrepair and cultural insensitivity.

But it has, and in the relatively short period since the Velvet Revolution in 1989 and the formation of the Czech Republic, the attention to detail that originally created such a wealth of architectural wonder has begun to shine through. There is still much to be done, but the signs of its abuse linger as a reminder, a vast monument of human against humanity, that itself remains its own form of culture.

The following is a small sample of Prague as it is today, a minute picture of life getting back to mundane normality, but in anything but a mundane environment.

Tourism is the predominant industry in the old centre of Town. But some lessons could be learnt in smiling, friendly, service and how to make a decent, drinkable coffee. The food is rich, fatty but rather tasty, roast pork, dumplings (ask for the potato ones rather than bread) and red and white sauerkraut is the local speciality and goes well with the great beers to choose from. Just like Amsterdam, smoking is part of the eating scene and dogs are welcome to sit with their owners while they dine, getting stood on occasionally with a sharp yelp and then dropping their load in the street at any time, which makes wandering the streets looking up at the marvelous buildings and spires a step, possible, in the wrong direction!

Prague Castle dominates the inner city and is one of the few castles that actually continue to perform official residential duties.

The broad Vlatava River that winds around the old town is reason for the beautiful bridges, the Charles Bridge being the most recognised, photographed and walked over and a sunny Saturday stroll across is accompanied by bands, performers, cartoonists, craft and souvenir stalls as the parade of imposing statutes perform a guard of honour.

Walking is the recommended form of transport within the older centre of town. A 2 to 4 hour walking tour will take you past most sights and attractions for you to revisit for a closer look later. There’s an extensive network of Metro, tram and bus services that criss-cross the city but the amount of walking in the Metro between platforms and staggering depth of the escalators just to get to or between trains may make you wonder if in fact you’re saving time or leg-power.

Terezin is the site of the Nazis prison camp and there ‘Final Solution’ were many Jews were interned under some of the worst brutality and conditions to ultimately vanished. The Smaller Fortress, while distressing, cannot fully reveal the horrors endured there and the irony is that on a cold, frosty morning the place takes on a rather elegant disguise.

The nearby Terezin Ghetto shows the signs of progressive disrepair and retains a sense of morbidity that still prevents many from living there, but there are people and a life among the hovering memories.

There is a lot more to learn about Prague and a lot more walking to be done.

A quick snapshot of Prague remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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The canals of Amsterdam

2008-02-23T09:51:58Z

Taking a one-hour canal cruise in Amsterdam is worth every one of the 11 euros. Starting from the Central Station landings, these cruises are so popular they’re every half-hour to cater for the crowds. So, I suggest you get there at a time when you are one of the first on for if you prefer to face in the direction you’re going as the seating is arranged facing each and late comers tend to be looking where you have been, or just looking at you!

The boat first heads out into the harbour and sitting low in the water you instantly get a different perspective of this water-based city.

The commentary is in three languages, Dutch, English and I’m not sure what the third is as my interest immediately focussed on the English directive. The information is clear and gives a warning of what is ahead to see and if it’s on the left or right. Initially it seems you have chosen the wrong side as all the points of interest are on the other side, but after a while things seem to even out. Not that you can’t see anything on your ‘other side’, it’s just that it’s through wavering heads vying for the best angle.

The first piece of surprising news is that the water in the harbour is not salty but fresh due to the locks, meaning there is no tidal rise or fall, adding great benefit to shipping. The other startling fact is that of all the canals and waterways, there is only one natural watercourse, the Amstel River, which in the eleventh century was dammed giving rise to the name Amsterdam. All the canals are man-made with digging commencing in 1380. The houses are anchored on pylons sunk 20-30 metres through marsh and into the stable sand basin making viewing the city from the water line a must. Most are wooden, with concrete introduced in recent times, and if kept free from contamination and air, will keep on holding up the tall building for many years to come.

But taking photos from this low vantage point can be a bit of a problem when most points of interest are up there, the houses that line the canals. The roofs of the cruise boats are probably Perspex as they are quite scoured and hinder a clear photograph. The side windows are clearer but you do get reflections from within the boat and depending on the time of day, sun glare.

But apart from this, the views are an insight into the city below the streets, the structure of the waterways and the beauty the city owes to its canals.

The canals of Amsterdam remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Amsterdam

2008-02-21T21:05:18Z

If anyone tries to convince you that the Earth is flat they’re probably Dutch.

Amsterdam is so flat that peddle-power is measured in minimum pedal rotations per 10 kilometres, making it the most bike-populated city in the world. So flat that anyone can ride well over retirement age and enjoy the right-of-way that all must give to those on two wheels, for if an ignorant tourist meanders along their dedicated red brick trail there is hell and bells to pay.

Amsterdam is so flat that if you drop a 2-euro coin, it doesn’t roll away, but settles conveniently at your feet. But do hesitate before stooping to pick it up and check dog poo and human spit wads that often spoil the polished cobblestones. Something not expected in this pristine city though in winter on a freezing day, the cold does tend to loosen the sinus into over-production.

Yes, bikes are everywhere and a great way to get around, but if you don’t care for riding around looking for a parking spot, then hopefully securing your vehicle with a lock and heavy chain and hope that when you return it’s not missing one wheel and the rest is dangling over the canal, then walking is far better and if your feet do get tired, juts hop onto a tram, pay the conductor 1.60 euro for a 2-section trip and enjoy the smoothest ride ever.

My preference is walking with only a vague idea of where I’m going and a street map tucked away to only consult when absolutely needed. For to wander is to find gems of sites, sounds and people that you could miss if taking the direct route. Amsterdam is easy to do this and easy to get back to the right direction, though with so much to see, every direction is the right way.

Rather than give a detailed, wordy, step-by-step diatribe of my visit to this beautiful city, I’m letting some selected photos tell the story, with the odd comment along the way. This may seem a bit of a cop-out, and well sorry, but it is, for I’m still travelling and getting behind with my blog, so I’m taking the easy way out and giving you a slide show to catch-up. But I promise to add more detail later when I’m not paying for hotel WIFI @ 6 euro an hour!

The Hoppe Bar on Spui Square is one of the oldest and biggest sellers of beer in the city. Very quaint with sand still spread on the wooden floor and a great range of some of the best beers you will ever taste.

On the culturual side of things, nothing beats the offering of art museums. Both the Van Gogh and Rijksmuseum are totally absorbing in their depth of exhibits. Both cost 10 euro to get in.

Begijnhof
Secluded from the street life of the busy Spui Square is the enclosed ‘hofjes’ (little courtyard) Begijnhof. Free entry but you are asked to remain quiet and respect the residents who live there. Originally a convent, this hofjes dates back to the early 14th century.

Within Begijnhof is the Engelse Kerk (English Church) with its heavy wooden door, ornate organ pipes and simple but peaceful interior. Opposite is the Begijnhof Kapel where the Beguines would secretly worship after the loss of their Gothic church.

Red Light district
Wander down the Red Light district canal at sunset and watch the activity grow both within the red-it rooms and the gathering crowd of onlookers and ingoers. Visit the Erotic Museum for 5 euro for 4 floors of some fascinating and some rather tardy exhibits. The higher you go the raunchier it gets, but by Dutch standards, all good clean fun.

Along with the ladies crooking their finger invitingly at you, there are heavier dens of activity with live sex of all sorts and if you’re up to it, audience participation. These places start at about 30 euro. Then there's the peep shows with private booths from 2 euro a minute. It’s advised that you don’t photograph the ladies in their windows as some heavy hand from behind could make this very clear (hence my shaken pic that was rushed so as not to be noticed).

Smoking
A statue of a street brat stands in Spui Square called the Lieverdje (Little Darling). Given to the city by a cigarette company, it became a meeting place for the Provo’s in the mid 60’s.

This little statue seems to represent the ongoing worship of the weed, both tobacco and marijuana. Everywhere you go people are smoking. In bars it's common to see the bar staff smoking more than the clients and serve you your beer with a fag hanging out of their mouth adding to the dense cloud overhead. Smoking dope is condoned but be careful as customs will be strict if you try to take any away with you. You can drop into the Hash & Marijuana Museum and sample some and breathe a little sweet smell into the street.

Amsterdam remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Tiptoe into the tulips

2008-02-19T08:13:30Z

A train ride to your destination is far more interesting than a twenty-five hour flight in darkness most of the way or an overnight ferry trip where the only interesting thing to see out of the porthole is imagined ghostly figures floating in the slightly illuminated wake.

So a train ride from Hook of Holland to Rotterdam Central is a refreshing, restful and enlightening change. But the best passing scenery was to come after changing to number nine platform and boarding the train to Amsterdam, making sure I get to the top deck for a better view. Now, not the best scenery by far I know, in this amazingly flat landscape but a refreshing change from the industrial and regimental houses between Heathrow and Harwich International.

The first sight of a windmill makes you wonder if it really works or is it placed there as a prop just to give visitors that oohh aahh factor. Whatever, it works, as the train glides respectively past and the land stretched into the far distance unhindered by neither mountain nor mound. And just as effective a sight is the deliberately placed water channels, the agricultural version of the canals I’m longing to see.

After and hour from Rotterdam, the train slides silently into Amsterdam Central Station giving a sense that this city is serious about public transport. Even though I’m entering the realm of lugging luggage through a station again, this time I’m so eager to feast my eyes on this city, I’ve forgotten past ordeals. But my feast for the eyes was marred by the extensive construction work stretching far from the station. But this is Amsterdam, the city I most loved when in Europe in the 60’s and no construction sight is going to spoil my welcome back.

It was too early to check into my hotel so a coffee would give me a chance to prop and refer to my map on how to navigate the streets. The little café Le Pot au Feu on Damrak not far from the station looked inviting and on entering, more than welcoming, so a second continental breakfast seemed appropriate for 5.95 euro.

The hotel was a bit of a walk but I was not in the mood to cram onto a tram but rather stroll and take in the evolving architecture as I headed deeper into the southern canal district. Luggage on wheels is great, but luggage on wheels on cobblestones is both bumpy and loud so when I finally arrived at my hotel it was probably as much relief to others on the street as it was for me.

The Hotel Dikker & Thijs Fenice at 444 Prinsengracht blends with the other buildings edging the canal, but this was my home for three days and that’s three days without dragging my bags around, and on finally resting them in my allotted room in the attic suite, it was my little heaven.

Tiptoe into the tulips remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Smooth sailing to Holland

2008-02-19T08:23:17Z

After the long haul from Melbourne, the tiring wanderings around stations, the struggle with luggage on trains and the eye-drooping wait for my ferry to come in, I was so ready for a bed and sleep, so finally the call to board was like a tonic that woke the senses.

The terminal to ship walkway at Harwich is still under construction so the meagre handful of waiting passengers are loaded onto a bus for delivery to the ferry. This is the first time I get a glimpse of the size of this thing, huge. I sailed to England in the 60’s on the Fairstar and I’d say it was just as big. Now, being a ferry that means it takes cars and trucks, so or bus followed the road up the ramp and into the bowels of this yawning whale. Out of bus and into a lift to take us to the eighth deck, out of ten, I think it was.

The small reception seemed inadequate for the size of the ship, but we were shown the way to our cabins and I rushed to rid myself of my luggage and unwind in my own space. We are handed a menu for dinner being served in the restaurant and for 12 euro there is a three-course on offer.

Not to miss out on what else this vessel has to offer, I quickly dumped the bags, a quick wash to freshen up the eyes and headed south to the next deck down. Here is the pumping heart of the floating village. There, spread over most of the deck is a restaurant, large duty-free shop, a bar, another food hall and for those with foreign money to get rid of, slot machines and gambling tables. If you are not in any hurry to kip there is also a full-sized cinema.

Checking out the restaurant, I opted for a cheaper range of food from food hall situated among the bar and gambling tables. Not a lot to choose from but ample. They took Pound and Euro, so I got rid of some English money. The number of passengers seemed larger as I realised that for every truck and car there is also a driver, but not being in holiday season, it was relatively empty. A Heineken at the bar went down so well I decided I like beer again, but this moment of relaxation reminded me that sleep was needed so I gave up the foreign film and headed back to my cabin.

The cabin has two bunks. I opted for the lower one just in case we come across rough weather and it allowed a better view out the window, yes, more a window than a porthole. It was dark of course at midnight as the ferry set sail. Unless you heard the revving of the engine you would not have guessed. But yes I can see the lights of the harbour passing by, so after a quick brush of the teeth, I turned the lights out and watched till the ship was out of the harbour and on the high sea, as smooth as can be.

The next thing I new was being woken by a loud voice over the cabin phone reminding everyone to get up, breakfast is served in the food hall and to get off the boat by 7.45. Obeying orders, I quickly showered, ate and left the ship behind.

I was now on Dutch soil.

Smooth sailing to Holland remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Planes, trains and more trains

2008-02-19T08:17:27Z

We all know Australia is a big country, but it’s also a country furthest from most other countries and anyone flying to Europe will understand that a flight from Melbourne to London can take around 24 hours or more with a stop over somewhere along the way.

So my first day of travel is not about to break this tradition. Around 9 hours before a 2-hour stopover in Hong Kong, back on the plane for another 15 hours before finally landing at London’s Heathrow Airport with only a staggered 4-hour sleep even though the Hong Kong to London leg was half empty and I managed to have the centre five seats to myself.

My plan is, once in London, I’ll get to Harwich International to catch the overnight ferry to the Hook of Holland then train to Amsterdam the following morning.

All sounds reasonable and achievable one would think, but when travelling with a suitcase and backpack with laptop adding to the weight, things can quickly get out of any well-researched plan.

Now keep in mind a 24-hour cramped journey in a flying cigar with only 4 hours napping, the first of my waiting experiences came in getting from Heathrow to London. Opting for the cheaper Heathrow Connect (£6 and 45 minutes) rather than the Express train (£12 and 15 minutes), was acceptable since customs and collecting baggage was extremely fast and as I had a bit of time on my hands until about 7 o’clock to get the train to Harwich International.

Arriving at Piccadilly station, the destination for both airport trains, had me wondering should I stay here before catching the circle line train to Liverpool Station to connect with the Harwich train? The time was now 2.30pm so I decided to hang around Piccadilly station as there’s quite a lot of shops and food outlets here, not that I was hungry after being fed all the way from Melbourne, but it didn’t take long to get sick and tired of dragging around luggage that, even if on wheels, gets heavier the more weary one gets.

But I must admit that I could look at the architecture and detailing of stations of old for many hours as the more you look the more you discover. But after an hour you can only do the circuit of shops and endure the greasy smells of the food stalls for so long. With security as it now is in London, I must be beginning to look rather suspicious so I decided to get to Liverpool Station even if just for a change of scenery.

Now just to add a bit of a warning to those travelling with any sizable luggage of more than a briefcase of backpack, the trains from Heathrow cater to ones needs, but once in London you’re on your own as even a medium size suitcase can get in the way in the normal train system, so be prepared to stand in the doorway and out of everyone’s way who are getting on or off and be ready to move from the left to the right as not every departure is from the same side.

After another train trip of 45 minutes to get to Liverpool Station, I realised Piccadilly wasn’t that bad after all. Now, nothing against the station, it’s just as lovely but less to do while waiting.

And here’s another problem when dragging around luggage, getting to a toilet is not that easy as the one at Liverpool is down steps. Not all things modern are bad, I feel.

After a couple of wandering hours at Liverpool, I thought a beer may pass away a few minutes but here I get another lesson, it is now office closing time and where do a lot of workers go while waiting for their carriage home, you bet, the pub. It was packed and no room for someone with luggage and as I approached I could see in the eyes of all the patrons, there's no space here for me.

An announcement that a train to Harwich was about to leave at 17.05 made me check the timetable to see how often trains go there. As this one was the last direct express for two hours I decided to get on – another error of judgement. The train, of at least 20 carriages, was full so for the first hour I stood with my luggage at the door entrance, again. For a train servicing the International ferries, there was no facility for any luggage and the tight seating layout left little space between seats. After an hour and one of the few stops I finally got a seat for the last 30 minutes until it arrived at Harwich International station.

I was relieved at first that it seemed quite modern with direct undercover entry to the ferry terminal departure lounge. But I realised all my mistakes had come to bite me, all the food stalls, the very few there are, were closed. In fact all seemed to be closed and not a soul around. There was one man at the Stena Line counter so I checked in. He informed me that boarding was not till 9.45pm, another three hours away. This was going to be a long, drawn-out battle just to stay awake.

Next, my pleasure-cruise to Amsterdam…

Planes, trains and more trains remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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In preparation, in pre-production, in anticipation

2008-01-26T21:55:59Z

Europe in Winter and Asia in summer offers up its own considerations when attempting to travel light. All the advice in the world cannot prepare for the freezing days that I haven't endured for forty years and a long faded memory of things of pain. But I do have recent experience of the heat and humidity that is ever constant in South East Asia which can only add to the dilemma in planning this trip.

From the moment I had a reason to do this trip, I needed to do a lot of research, not only for how to get were I wanted to go, where to stay when I get there, what to do and see that is relevant, but with a research trip with a purpose in mind and a short time to do it, I needed a tight itinerary. The more I added to this itinerary, the more I found I needed to see and hence the time set aside started to become condensed and crowded. But this makes for a trip with a purpose, I figured. Well, possibly but it also makes for a reliance on travel connections and unforeseen lay-overs that can easily wipe out half a day.

Well, the time has almost arrived when all has been planned and booked, the itinerary is crowded and the credit card debit is bulging. This forced the creation of a spreadsheet in Excel to keep track of what I've paid for, what has been booked, what needs to be paid at the location and what deposits have been paid and the balances outstanding. These things need to be kept track of or things can get out of hand, the budget is shot and there is the chance of being overcharged or pay for something already paid for. The result is a binder that is starting to bulge with e-booking tickets and confirmations.

With just over two weeks before setting of on this journey, I'm only now starting to feel confident I've covered all bases...what's that I hear? Never! I agree, there will always be the unexpected when traveling and that's why I've set up this travel journal for all to follow my journey and join with me in my experiences and how I combat those unexpected hurdles that will inevitably block my passage (a common ailment when traveling).

In preparation, in pre-production, in anticipation remains copyright of the author DenOS.08, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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